Review: QuadLock for Galaxy S8+

You might know I’ve made my own smartphone mount out of some plastic, but that idea became boring and more and more a pain to use than being handy.

It was time for a new mount that is safe, easy to remove, and good looking too.

I searched online for different mounting systems, but the RAM X-grip can get loose and it still is a two-hand operation, just like the UltimateAddons waterproof case, that is not usable with phones with a case. (see below)

UltimateAddons waterproof case

Then we have the Rokform mounting system with integrated case, which uses a similar interlocking mechanism as the Quadlock, but relies on some neodymium magnets to keep the phone secure on the mount. The Rokform is also not safe in landscape mode.

Rokform mount for handlebars

And alas, we have the Lifeproof mount. This one also relies on a magnet, but has a little tab that can be flipped to lock the phone in place. However, the design looks too flimsy and there is no way to attach the Lifeproof mount to a RAM ball without vibrations.

Lifeproof mount for handlebars

The one that caught my eye in the past few days was the Quadlock, because it has an ad running on Instagram (good lord, ads work on social media!) The design is good, it has a physical lock with audible feedback, it can be used in landscape AND portrait, and it doesn’t cost the world!
The photo shows a handlebar mount, but there is also a RAM, mirror, bike stem, car, sports armband, wall, belt and tripod adaptor mount available.

The Quad Lock has a locking system

The case & mount together cost around 54€, and that is with the 10% discount on their site ( by registering! The only downside is that they only accept creditcard or PayPal, so for the people that use Maestro or iDeal, tough luck.

The only downside on this mount, is that it is mainly made from composite material instead of aluminium. I hope the longevity of the mount will outlast my phone.

The case is made of a composite material of TPU and Polycarbonate, which makes it flexible, but also very strong. It has a microfiber lining to protect the glass back of the phone, and best of all, it is also compatible with wireless charging, although it took a few tries to get it charging.

For non-Apple or Samsung users, there exists a universal adaptor for your phone or phone case, which uses a 3M™ VHB adhesive. However, it will not adhere to rubber, silicone, TPU or soft touch coatings.

Quad Lock Adaptor Sticker

The mount fits securely in on the bike using the RAM arm, but it vibrates a bit because of my fake RAM ball mount from AliExpress, so results may vary with the quality of the parts you are using.

The verdict?
The Quad Lock mount and case is a very handy solution for iPhones, Samsung’s Galaxy phones and it also sports a universal mounting system.

If you already have RAM X-Grip on your bike and you want to upgrade it to a more secure and easier mount, the Quad Lock is perfect because it is just plug and play. No special tools needed to mount it to your bike.

If you want to mount your phone directly to your handelbars or mirror, you can get a full kit on for €69.90 without 10% discount. The universal one costs around €54,90 without 10% discount.

So the price is on par with the UltimateAddons kit, above the LifeProof mount, and lower than the RAM and RokForm kit, whereas the latter costs 99.99USD for the mount itself.

All in all: Good price/quality ratio, good enough design, good protection and very easy to use!

Top 10 Motorcycle Must Haves

I’m currently having too many tools in my bike’s frunk, and can’t seem to remove more stuff to make more space inside to fit other things in it, so I’ve made a list of the top 10 things you need on a motorcycle!

1) First Aid Kit

Held First aid kit
You never know when you need to use it. For assisting, aiding yourself, aiding your injured friend, etc… I don’t even know if it’s mandatory to keep a first aid kit in your bike at all times, but for cars it is.
I’ve never used mine, but it’s a HELD First Aid kit that costs around 20€.
It’s also fairly compact at 14cm x 15cm x 5cm and includes all the neccessary things (scissors, band-aids, gloves, gauze, …). The waterproofing also makes it possible to keep it outside in the elements.

2) Tire repair kit (only for Tubeless)

Tire repair kit

This one I also never used, mainly because I never had a flat. It uses rubber plugs to plug the hole in your tire. It’s as big as the First Aid Kit at 16cm x 11cm x 5cm. It contains a reamer, a mounting tool, 5 rubber plugs, rubber cement, knife, and 3 CO2 cartridges (and hose).
This pouch has a lot of room to spare so I’ve put in some allen keys, some wrenches, but you better be prepared when it happens.

3) Phone mount

Motorcycle phone mount

I use this all the time, for commuting, travelling, just taking a ride, navigating,… The possibilities with a phone are endless! Especially if you can make your own routes!
A good site with a lot of options (but only Samsung and Apple) is
They have a plethora of mounts that are waterproof (Apple from 5 – X, and Samsung from S6 to S8+) They are quite expensive, but they are worth it.
Otherwise you can also build one yourself! (but it’s not waterproof)

Used in combination with a 12V socket or on bike USB charger.

4) Intercom System (or bluetooth)

Sena 3S

This is used in combination with the phone mount, because who wants to see instructions but not hear them? If you don’t ride with friends, but do listen to music and have the occassional call from someone, the Sena 3S is the perfect candidate for you!
It has multiple versions for full face, open face and modular helmets, and the call quality is very, very good.

For riders in group, the Sena 20S or Cardo Smartpack are the best.

5) Baggage Net and Elastic Baggage Cord!

Baggage Net

These are immensly handy if it comes to transporting huge things. I’ve bought the Givi HP1111 handprotectors and I didn’t have my topcase with me, then I remembered that I still had a Baggage net under my seat, and it never came loose!

Of course it is also usable for normal baggage.

6) Camera

Sony HDR AS300 V

For this you need to check your country’s legislation about using dashcams.
For instance in Austria and Luxembourg it is forbidden to use an action cam/dashcam on the road.
In other countries it is interesting to have, mostly because of road rage and crashes.
If you have everything on video, they can not lie about what happened.
Although you shouldn’t do anything self incriminating if you’re rolling the camera (I see you MaxWrist)

7) Factory Tool Kit

NC700 Tool Kit

Most riders just throw the factory tool kit out, but it just contains everything you need to fix small issues on your bike like adjusting the chain, removing fairings, tightening some nuts and bolts, removing sparkplugs, replacing fuses etc…
It’s a kit that is very complete, so never remove it from the bike to save weight, just eat less and exercise more!

8) Pocket Tissues


Do you have hay fever? Are you allergic to pollen? Do you need to blow your nose?
With having pocket tissues somewhere on your bike, you never forget your pocket tissues anymore! It has saved me a lot of times when I had to blow my nose and didn’t find any tissues in my jacket. It can also be used to remove dead flies from your helmet or cleaning out a wound. A must have indeed!

9) Your DB-Killer(s)

db killer

Ever had the police to come say your pipes are too loud? Me neither! But if it happens, you better come prepared, so you can put them back in and evade a noise complaint ticket. (requires toolkit too!)

10) Adjustable levers

rizoma lever

Are your hands too small to reach the levers comfortably?
Fret not, adjustable levers to the rescue! I have chinese adjustable levers on my bike, but should you be worried about the quality, you can always buy Rizoma or Pazzo adjustable levers. These will increase comfort and look good too. Should you be in a crash, the original levers probably won’t give way, and break off, rendering them useless to ride further.

There is no need for fancy expensive gadgets to decrease the risk of stranding or having discomfort while riding your motorbike. Whatever works for you is perfectly fine. The things I listed here are things that reassure me that I won’t have any problems getting help or helping other people by keeping these things (first aid, tire kit, tool kit) on the bike.
If this list helped you, please leave a comment!

Review: DR. Wack S100 White Chain Lube

Because I have a new to me bike, I’d like to invest a bit more in the products I use to keep my bike maintained.

In the past I’ve used Holts Chain grease (green, sticky stuff), Holts Spray grease, Nigrin Kettensprühfett -für Motorräder- and now S100 White Chain Lube.

I’ve had my doubts about the S100 spray grease, but I was pleasantly suprised.

It sprays well, it sticks very good, there is almost no grease on the wheel or on the chain guard.

Looking at the specsheet it contains the following elements:
– 20<25% Butane CAS 106-97-8
– 25-50% Naphta (petroleum), hydrotreated light CAS 64742-49-0
– 20<25% Propane CAS 74-98-6
– 1-<2,5% 2-Ethylhexyl-zinkdithiophosphate CAS 4259-15-8

It comes to my mind that the last element is an additive that hardens under pressure, and thus increases the life of the chain. Not a lot of chain sprays I’ve seen and used have that additive. Maybe it is why the S100 Chain spray won the motorrad online test.

So what is my experience with this chain spray?
I have bought a small bottle (75ml) of S100 to keep in my bike to lube the chain when necessary.

It smells a lot, so lube the chain in a well ventilated area, perhaps outside.
You also have to fully depress the spray nozzle to get the maximum amount of lubrication on the inside of the chain.

NEVER spray on the outside of the chain, because that doesn’t do anything but wasting your precious spray.

Also make sure you don’t have any overspray on your tire. That results in crashing the bike. Better is to use some cardboard to protect the ground and tire from overspray.

The best time to lube the chain is after a ride. That way, the chain is warm/hot and absorbs the lube much more between the X/O/Z rings.

I highly recommend S100 Chain spray to everyone who loves to ride their bike, and doesn’t want to clean the slung off chain spray everytime they ride their bike 🙂

I R8 8/8 GR8 M8

Shitty electronics ‘n stuff

A few days ago I saw that my right rear indicator had some kind of loose contact, but it was good enough, till it totally failed.

Now it’s repaired, and the following reasons why it failed and how long it took to repair is also in this blogpost 🙂

On with the story:
I was riding around, minding my own business till I went on and overtook some guy, that was the one moment I saw that my blinker didn’t work. This is commonly seen by a fast blinking light on the dashboard because the resistance isn’t the same anymore.

So I went on and parked my bike at the side of the road to inspect WHY it doesn’t work.
After a bit of a wiggle and trying to push the light back into it’s housing (because it’s vibrating on the exhaust) It worked again!

Then after a few minutes, the same thing happened, and trying the same did work again!
I thought it was nothing serious and rode around with the blinker still working for about a month.

On my (almost) weekly “fun run” the blinker didn’t work anymore, and wiggling and pushing the light back didn’t work at all. So I went on and rode back home to fix it.

To fix it, I had to take the rear rack, topcase carrier, rear stowage cover and the blinker out.
It was easy to remove, but so much harder to put it all together.

I disassembled the blinker, and tried the bulb, which was still intact (which is fortunate considering it’s a halogen bulb vibrating and colliding with the muffler).
The main problem was a bad ground. It was a “wedge ground” and not a soldered one.
I then soldered the ground and extended both wires to get some slack in my wiring harness. It finally worked!
And since I had the light disassembled, I cleaned the reflector from dust.

Putting it all took most of my time. It took me about half an hour to just get the bolt holes aligned using a screwdriver, but once aligned, everything fitted together as they should.

I then tried all my lights, and damn! My right foglight doesn’t work anymore!
I had to get a replacement bulb from the internet, because I didn’t find a store near me that could have those bulbs, but now I’ve found one about 30km’s away.

So I’ve spent about 12€ on 2 lights that normally cost 1,30€ a piece…
Should’ve searched a bit more…

Anyway, it was so much easier to replace the broken foglight bulb. It was snip snip, strip and solder and heatschrink away! Now I have fully functional lighting again!

Hooray for doing your own stuff on your bike!

Thanks for reading, and remember, ride safe!


Maintaining your bike

When I bought my bike, I didn’t see that it didn’t have enough maintenance.
The seller brought it to my doorstep (which was very friendly, because I didn’t want to spend money on a rental truck), but he had shown some paperwork that the front forks and carbs were cleaned and rebuilt.

When inspecting it after he left, there was an awful lot of gunk on the rear wheel and sprocket, everything was blackened by oil and roadgrime.

After some cleaning I inspected the chain and sprockets, which were in an “almost junk” condition, but I’ve still gotten about a 2000km’s out of ’em.
Maintenance if fairly cheap, If you do it yourself.
To replace the chain, I’ve asked my mechanic (well he isn’t my friend, but I know him) to change out the worn sprocket and chain, and that costed me about 20€.

He then also checked the bike for other worn parts, and saw that my rear brake pads were totally worn out, the front ones were almost at the end of their life.
The day after, I bought a set for the front and rear. The costed about 58€ for the set.
Installing went fairly easy, but it took some time to understand how the calipers worked.
Then it was time to replace the brake fluid that was darkened a lot. It was so dark you could swear it was motor oil.

All went well till I found a big oil spot on the ground, coming from the cam chain tensioner. It’s known that the DR650, XF650 and CCM R30 have leaking gaskets around the engine, but I didn’t want to wait to replace it. So I went on and cut a gasket out of an old milk carton I found in the trash, and it worked perfectly!
It was a tedious job because I never got the holes right, but with some help of the internet, everything is possible.
I used the milk carton gasket on my orange chinese moped to close off the valve cover, and it never leaked.

Now after a full maintenance (chain, tires, brakes, oil,…) the bike still runs like a dream, except when the battery died on me because the fog lights pull a lot more power than I expected.

Anyways: Never skip maintenance on your bike, because small jobs become big jobs in the future, just like keeping your chain adequatlely lubed.

As always, ride safe!